Ski in, ski-out — going inn to inn in Vermont’s backcountry

VERMONT — This winter, take a break from your normal routine and make some time for a foray into the backcountry. From short outings to weekend getaways, there are plenty of adventures to be had beyond the ski trails at area resorts.
The following three tours, located on Vermont’s 300-mile long Catamount Trail, run two to three days and involve spending nights at a number of inns and bed-and-breakfasts in close proximity to the trailhead.
Skiers should be forewarned that route-finding may be problematic in the backcountry; that weather is uncertain and treacherous in the winter; and that skiing in the backcountry is not for the uninitiated. Alpine touring gear with climbing skins, not Nordic skis, is recommended for ungroomed trails and for any trails not within a Nordic touring center. We recommend carrying snowshoes for terrain that is too rough to ski.
All routes described below are very general in nature, and not to be used for route-finding. For maps and more detailed route descriptions, as well as tips on preparing for a trip into the Vermont backcountry, go to www.catamountrail.org and research the trips outlined below for where to start, more detailed route descriptions, and average time required per section of trail. For general purposes, a competent backcountry skier should average at least 2 mph with a light daypack. Allow five to six hours, therefore, for a 12-mile trek.
Killington to Ripton
Days: 3
Total distance: 30 miles, plus skiing at cross-country centers
Day 1
Itinerary: Sherburne Pass parking lot on Route 4 to Mountain Top Cross-Country Ski Center (Catamount Trail Section 13); 10 miles.
Route description: Access the Catamount Trail from the Long Trail/Appalachian Trail/Catamount Trail parking lot, located off Route 4 at the top of Sherburne Pass. This section of the trail features 10 miles of intermediate skiing through varied terrain with views of the Chittenden Reservoir. Along the way, you’ll ski a variety of trail types, including ungroomed backcountry, snowmobile trails, and the groomed trails of Mountain Top Cross-Country Ski Center.
Once arriving at Mountain Top, explore their cross-country trails or relax at the inn and enjoy the views of the Green Mountains.
Transportation tip: Leave a car at one end of the destination and have someone drop you off at the other terminus. We suggest traveling south to north, but it works either way.
Lodging first night:
Mountain Top Resort, 195 Mountain Top Road, Chittenden, VT 05737
1-800-445-2100, 802-483-2311, www.mountaintopinn.com
Day 2
Itinerary: Mountain Top Cross-Country Ski Center to Brandon Gap (Catamount Trail Section 14) to Blueberry Hill Inn, Goshen; 14 miles.
Route description: From Mountain Top Inn and Resort, ski 10 miles of the Catamount Trail along groomed ski trails and VAST snowmobile trails to Brandon Gap. Cross Route 73 and head up steep terrain to Horrid Mountain. The first 4 miles traverse intermittent streams and gullies along the Catamount Trail, requiring good ski control (or snowshoes). Once across the streams and gullies, drop down onto the rolling terrain of the Blueberry Hill Nordic Center. These are ungroomed trails, but well marked and cut. At Blueberry Hill, you’ll have access to 50km of ungroomed skiing. At the end of this long day, stay the night at Blueberry Hill Inn. Be sure to get an early start.
Lodging night two:
Blueberry Hill Inn, 1245 Goshen Ripton Road, Goshen, VT 05733
802-247-6735, www.blueberryhillinn.com
Day 3
Itinerary: Blueberry Hill Inn to Chipman Inn in Ripton, 7 miles.
Route description: After a long day two, enjoy a leisurely breakfast at Blueberry Hill Inn and enjoy this special place in the midst of the Moosalamoo National Recreation Area on the edge of the Breadloaf Wilderness. Explore the 50km of ungroomed trails, then work your way 7 miles to Rikert Nordic Center in Ripton, just five minutes from the Chipman Inn in Ripton. (A community bus makes routine stops at the touring center every 30 minutes 9 a.m. to 4 p.m., to provide transportation to the inn.) Spend the night here and arrange for transportation in the morning, after heading up the road to the Rikert Nordic Center on Middlebury College’s Bread Loaf campus and enjoy spectacular skiing at this fully groomed touring center.
Bolton Valley to Stowe
Days: 1 or 2
Total distance: 12-19 miles
Day 1, 12 miles
Itinerary: Bolton Valley to Trapp Family Lodge Cross Country Ski Center (Catamount Trail Section 22).
Route description: Your first day follows 12 miles of advanced backcountry skiing. The trail is challenging and ungroomed, with views of the Worcester range. It begins at the Nordic Center at Bolton Valley Ski Area and heads north over the Long Trail and Catamount Trail to the Nebraska Valley in Stowe. Once at the top of the ridgeline, descend several miles to Nebraska Valley Road, then head uphill a hundred yards to Old County Road (following the ski trail just below the road) as it parallels Old County Road to the Trapp Touring Center. Once you hit the Trapp Trails, descend to the Trapp Family Lodge, home to the nation’s first cross-country center, for a well-deserved night with excellent dining. (Snowshoes not required on this section.)
Trapp Family Lodge, 700 Trapp Hill Road, P.O. Box 1428, Stowe, VT 05672
1-800-826-7000, 802-253-8511, www.trappfamily.com
Day 2, Easy 5-7 miles
Itinerary: Trapp Family Lodge to Topnotch Nordic Center (Catamount Trail Section 23).
Route description: From Trapp Family Lodge, ski 7 miles of intermediate backcountry trail on the Trapp Trails. From there, ski over the backside toward Stowe to the Topnotch Trail system and finish out the day exploring the trails at the Topnotch Nordic Barn Adventure Center, or stop first at the Stowe Mountain Resort Ski Center to ski their trails. Topnotch has access to 30km of groomed and backcountry skiing, while Stowe’s Nordic center boasts 45km of groomed trails and 30km of backcountry trails. (Nordic skis will suffice on this day of travel.)
Topnotch Resort & Spa, 4000 Mountain Road, Stowe, VT 05672
1-800-451-8686, 802-253-8585, www.topnotchresort.com
Day 3, optional:
Itinerary: Topnotch Nordic Center into Stowe Village
Route description: Spend the morning exploring the variety of Nordic terrain offered by Topnotch and/or Stowe Resort. Afterwards, finish out your tour with an easy 5-mile ski down the Stowe Recreation Path into the village of Stowe. (Nordic skis only.)
Inn at the Mountain at Stowe, Mountain Road, Stowe, VT 05672
802-253-3000, www.stowe.com
Stowe’s Edson Hill (extra day in Stowe)
Days: 1
Total distance: 6 miles, plus skiing at cross-country ski centers
Day 1
Itinerary: From Topnotch in Stowe, continue on ski trails to Stowe Cross-Country Ski Center and then on to Edson Hill Manor (Catamount Trail Section 23).
Route description: Access the Catamount Trail via the Stowe Recreational Path. From there, follow 6 miles of intermediate backcountry and groomed trails. While this section of the Catamount Trail involves steep climbs and steep descents, much of it runs through trails maintained by cross-country ski centers. Spend the rest of the afternoon enjoying the Edson Hill Manor trail system, containing 25km of groomed trails. (Nordic skis will suffice.)
Edson Hill Manor, 1500 Edson Hill Road, Stowe, VT 05672
1-800-621-0284, 802-253-7371, www.edsonhillmanor.com
Eden/Craftsbury Line to Lowell Village
Days: 2
Total distance: 20.6 miles
Day 1
Itinerary: Eden/Craftsbury Town Line to Craftsbury Outdoor Center (Catamount Trail Section 27)
Route description: From the town line parking lot on Eden Mountain Road, travel about 100 yards and intersect with the Catamount Trail. This 7.6-mile section offers a combination of rolling, ungroomed terrain through the woods, and the groomed trails of the Craftsbury Outdoor Center.
Craftsbury Outdoor Center, 535 Lost Nation Road, Craftsbury Common, VT 05827
802-586-7767, www.craftsbury.com
Day 2
Itinerary: Craftsbury Outdoor Center to Lowell Village.
Route description: Your second day travels 13 miles from the Craftsbury Outdoor Center to Lowell Village. This section crosses the Lowell Mountains and travels through open fields on the historic Bayley-Hazen Road along the way. The route is groomed cross-country trail, part snowmobile trail and part ungroomed backcountry trail and ends at the Lowell town offices on Route 100. From here, you will need to arrange transportation to your lodging.
The Rendezvous Bed & Breakfast, 2507 Vermont 100, Lowell, VT 05847
802-744-2085, www.rendezvousbandb.com

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